INJORACarbon Fiber Chassis Kit Low Center of Gravity Frame Girder for Axial SCX24 Deadbolt JLU C10 Bronco 1/24 RC Crawler Upgrade Part, 15g

Easy to install if you know what your doing. Great price. A works great. Chassis is lighter than stock!! Fit the b-17 Betty great!

Injora quality

Takes a bit of tinkering, running backwards requires some creativity to line up the holes. Good mounting option. I ran it normally and managed to swap out without pulling the car apart very much. Mounted to an scx24 without issues. Reversed it to get the battery up front, a fair bit more challenging to get everything tucked in.Pictures are with as many suspension mods as possible, couldnt get it lower. Afterwards its much lower.Noticeably more planted than the stock rails(as it should be!)Single picture is with 1.3 injoras.

Got this chassis as a mod for an SCX24 Deadbolt. At this point, there are few original SCX24 parts left besides the drive shafts and the electronics. This chassis is lighter and stiffer than stock, looks good, and offers a fair number of suspension attachment points.Trouble is there are no instructions. At all. Which isn't that big a deal, since if you spend a lot of time tinkering with these small scale crawlers, you get used to figuring things out. But it may take a bit of tinkering to figure out exactly where you want to mount things, and there is only one "wide" platform, which means either the electronics or the battery will be relegated to one of the narrow ones.My build ended up with the wide platform to the rear to mount the electronics, and the battery in front held on with velcro. It works fine for my setup, but it would have been nice to have more options (more than one wide platform, tabs at the ends, etc.) since this setup isn't quite ideal.I give it top marks for quality though.

I have a Bronco SCX24 built almost entirely with injora parts. For the incredibly low price, it is an absolute BEAST. However, I have a few tips for this chassis.1: Get longer shocks. In most cases, a build won't benefit from shocks longer than roughly 43 mm, unless the build has serious modifications. If you're using the stock chassis and links, 43 is the absolute limit. With these, 43 is almost a minimum if you're trying to run a stock body. It sits so low in relation to the wheels that a lot of your rebound travel will be taken up just to achieve ride height. Get longer shocks to compensate.2: Have some magnets handy for body mounting. They'll help a lot. Use 3m VHB double sided tape, it's the absolute best and it's crazy thin.3: My build has the injora steering link, and EMax servo. At full compression, the front of the chassis hits the bolt that links the steering rods. Trimming about 2mm off would fix it.4: It will take A LOT of patience to get a stock body to fit, and probably a lot of trimming.

Budget friendly, great LCG Chassis for the price angled skid multiple shock mounts and easy to put together.

I purchased this for me SCX24 C10. This is a great addition to any upgraded rig. Super easy to put together and it’s made very well. Everything lined up as it should. There are multiple locations for shock mounts which is great. It’s a very thin yet stiff frame and extremely light. One thing to note, since this a low center of gravity frame design, you will have to move some of the supports around if you happen to be using a brushless motor and if you have an upgraded battery it will not fit under the bed of the truck. I haven’t found a solution for this yet. I have been thinking of cutting the bed out and 3D printing a cover for the bed to allow for the upgraded bigger battery.

This chassis was really solid and really cool and looks really good. But if you're not very good at DIYing then you're going to struggle to relocate your ECS somewhere on this because it doesn't give you a set location for it. I just kind of stuck it between the shock towers and it just makes everything very difficult. Turning it on. Relocateing your back but on the shocks etc